Spelt Sourdough Cinnamon Buns

Post is sponsored by Doves Farm

Did you know it’s #RealBreadWeek? A week celebrating bread made the old fashioned way, nothing but flour, water, salt and yeast, no funny chemicals or mass commercial processes. Unsurprisingly, I can happily get behind this. As a guy who has tried and failed on far too many occasions to successfully work with sourdough the last couple months have been a revelation, as I committed myself to conquering this week spot in my baking arsenal. I am now regularly turning out loaves of bread I am childishly excited about. I would love to say I am joking but I have performed an actual happy dance when I pull from the oven, a blistered loaf of sourdough that looks like it has come from the shelves of one of the many amazing bakeries London has to offer. I do know however that I will never bake loaves of bread more than once a week and so the question is, what else to make with the starter that is happily hibernating in my fridge right now? The answer is clearly cinnamon buns, it’s the very obvious, very delicious choice. To celebrate all things bread we also have to talk flour and for that I turned to Doves Farm, one of the UK’s best organic flour companies. I am currently working with them to show you a whole world of alternative grains, specifically ‘ancient' grains. 

Now the term ancient grain might not be one you’re accustomed to hearing but it has a fairly simple definition. It is a form of grain that has been cultivated for food for over millennia and one that hasn’t been changed much through selective breading like modern cereal varieties like rice, corn and the wheat varieties we use more widely (the stuff found in regular flours). This means grains like buckwheat, KAMUT®  khorasan and spelt. The bigger question might be why use ancient grains when regular wheat is so readily available. The answer I am most interested in is flavour. Those of you that have tried something that pairs the flavours of rye and chocolate together understand what I mean, these grains have their own unique flavours and ones that can enhance your recipes. 

For today’s recipe I am using spelt. Spelt is one of the ancient grains we are maybe more accustomed to, you’ve been able to buy it supermarkets for years and it’s one of the easiest to use. You can generally substitute in at least 50% spelt flour without any changes to the recipe and in some cases you can use even more. The spelt lends a more complex flavour and has an inherent touch of sweetness. For this bread dough I used 100% spelt except for the starter which I maintain with regular white bread flour. If you need a guide to starting a sourdough starter, Doves Farm have a handy little guide.

Spelt Sourdough Cinnamon Rolls

Spelt Dough
200g sourdough starter (100% hydration)
200ml milk
50g light brown sugar
450ml Doves Farm Organic White Spelt Flour  
1 tsp salt
75g unsalted butter, room temperature
1 large egg

Cinnamon Filling
200g light brown sugar
1 heaped tbsp ground cinnamon
100g unsalted butter, very soft

Cream Cheese Glaze
50g unsalted butter, very soft
65g full fat cream cheese
100g icing sugar
1 tsp vanilla bean paste

To make the dough place all of the ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl of an electric stand mixer and on low speed, with the dough hook attached, knead the dough for about 10 minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic. With the mixer still running add the butter a piece at a time. Once all of the butter has been incorporated knead for a further 10 minutes or until the dough is smooth, elastic and pulling away from the sides of the bowl.

Spelt makes for a dough with incredible extensibility, that is to say a stretchiness you won’t find with regular wheat dough, so I’ve added an extra step that helps make the dough more manageable which might be a little unusual if you’re not used to working with sourdough.

Cover the bowl with clingfilm and set aside at room temperature for two hours. During this period we are going to give the dough a set of ‘folds’ to build strength in the dough. Basically use a wet hand to scoop up the dough from the side, lifting about 20-30cm high and folding it over to the opposite side. Do this at the north, east, south and west side of the bowl. Do this after an hour’s rest and then again after the two hours have passed, making sure to keep the bowl covered between each set. After the two hours are up set the dough aside for 4-6 hours or until the dough has risen by about 50%. Place the bowl into the refrigerator overnight, up to 24 hours. 

Prepare a 9x13 brownie pan by lightly greasing with butter and lining the base with parchment paper. Take the dough from the fridge and tip it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Roll the dough into a rectangle that is roughly 40cm x 50cm. Spread the butter over the entire piece of dough. Mix together the cinnamon and sugar and sprinkle in an even layer over the butter. Roll the dough up into a tight sausage and cut into 12 equal sized pieces (I find unflavoured dental floss to be the absolute best thing for this as it doesn't squash the layers together, this dough is also fairly soft so you’d need to be delicate if using a serrated knife). Place the buns into the prepared pan and cover with clingfilm. Set the buns aside for about 1-2 hours or until risen and puffy, the buns will not double in size but they should be touching at this point. Whilst the buns are proving preheat the oven to 190C (170C Fan).

Bake the buns in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool in the pan before serving. If making the glaze mix all of the ingredients together until smooth. Spread over the cooled buns and serve. 

Once the dough is refrigerated you can leave it there for up to three days but once baked they are best served on the day made. 

Chocolate Babka Recipe

Yesterday morning I sadly flew home, back to London after a few days working in Sicily, where I took as much time as I could to eat gelato and enjoy the weather . It was a whirlwind of a trip, travelling across the island, seeing and eating as much as possible. I was busy working so unfortunately didn't get to explore as much as I would normally like but of course I did manage to sneak away from my duties to get hold of some local ingredients to bring home to bake with, I'm talking hazelnuts, lemons, oregano and of course pistachios, possibly one of the most well known Sicilian ingredients. Next time I visit I want to go to the source and explore Bronte. Whilst I was on the island I tried pistachio in gelato, granita (my new favourite thing), cannoli and even in a few savoury dishes. Of course I wanted to use the nuts in a recipe and the one that sprung to mind is one that I have been meaning to share for far too long. Over the last five or so years as the trend for Babka has come and maybe even gone, I totally fell in love with them. A swirled loaf packed full of chocolate and nuts then soaked in syrup, whats not to like? My version is fairly standard, a soft brioche style dough enriched with butter and eggs, swirled together with a mixture of butter and chocolate, covered in pistachios and baked. The dough I use is based on my cinnamon bun dough but with more egg and a touch more butter. I find that using a dough that is light on the additions of butter and egg makes for a much drier loaf because the dough is rolled fairly thin it can have a tendency to dry out so a properly enriched dough really helps make the perfect babka.

When it comes to the filling I have taken a big queue from the recipe for Krantz Cake in Ottolenghi's book Jerusalem. I have tried many versions over the years and his is by far the best so I have based my recipe on that version, although there are a couple key differences but these mainly come down to flavour preference and ease of making. 

Like many recipes for Babka this makes two loaves and while you could of course reduce the recipe in two I love the ability to have one of these loaves in the freezer ready to whip out when needed. 

Chocolate and Pistachio Babka

Babka Dough
600g plain flour
7g dried yeast
2 tsp salt
30g caster sugar
250ml whole milk
3 large eggs
75g unsalted butter

Chocolate Pistachio Filling
100g pistachios, roughly chopped
50g light brown sugar
30g cocoa powder
120g dark chocolate (60-70% cocoa solids)
120g unsalted butter, diced
large pinch flaked sea salt

Syrup
200g caster sugar
125ml water

To make the dough place the flour, yeast, salt and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer and mix briefly together to combine. Pour in the milk and the eggs and, with the dough hook attached,mix together on low/medium speed for about 10-15 minutes or until the dough is no longer sticking to the sides of the bowl and is elastic. With the mixer still running add the butter and mix until fully incorporated into the dough then continue mixing for a further 10-15 minutes or until elastic and no longer sticking to the bowl. Form the dough into a ball and place into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with clingfilm and refrigerate overnight. 

In the morning start off by making the chocolate filling. Place all of the ingredients except the pistachios into a small saucepan and cook over low heat until fully melted and smooth. Be very careful, stirring constantly, to prevent the chocolate catching on the pan and burning. Set aside for 20 minutes to cool and thicken slightly. 

Remove the dough from the fridge and divide into two equal sized pieces. On a lightly floured worksurface roll out into a rectangle roughly 30x40cm. Spread half of the chocolate mixture all over the dough, leaving a small border around the outside. Roll the dough, along the long edge, into a tight spiral then using a very sharp knife cut through the middle, cutting the dough into two long pieces. Place one piece of dough over the second forming an x then braid together the two pieces of dough. Gently place the babka into a 9x4 loaf pan that has been lightly greased and lined with a strip of parchment paper. Cover the tin with clingfilm and set aside for about an hour and a half or until the dough has about doubled in size. Repeat with the second piece of dough. 

Whilst the loaves are rising preheat the oven to 180C (170C Fan). When risen remove the clingfilm and bake for about 30-35 minutes or until the loaves are golden brown on top. Whilst the loaves bake, make the syrup by placing the sugar and water into a small saucepan and bringing to a simmer. Once the sugar has fully dissolved turn off the heat and set aside until needed. Once the babka has baked remove from the oven and brush liberally with the syrup, it will seem like a lot but trust me and use it all. Allow the loaves to cool fully before cutting into them, otherwise the bread will end up doughy and dense. If you are freezing one of the loaves, once cooled wrap in two layers of clingfilm and a layer of foil. When you come to defrost the loaf leave it at room temperature, still wrapped, for a few hours. This way as the babka defrosts the condensation that forms ends up on the outside of the loaf and doesn't effect the quality. Fresh from the oven the babka will keep for about three days. 

Wild Garlic and Zataar Savoury Scones

I have been making version of these savoury scones for years, switching up the flavours on a whim or according to whatever ingredient is in season. My favourite incarnation of these scones though has to be ones that in some manner include wild garlic. This magical ingredient, which grows wild all across the UK which means if you want to go foraging then this recipe is for you (just be careful wild garlic looks annoyingly similar to lily of the valley which is poisonous so if your confident with distinguishing between the two it is best to find a different source). Generally I find the best place to go looking for the garlic is in damp woodland, where it often grows in abundance. The only other tip I will give you, because im no foraging expert, is that avoid the garlic that is close to the paths and walkways. As these areas are popular with dog walkers the garlic on the sides of the paths has a big risk of being contaminated and not something you want to eat. But enough with that lets talk flavour, in these scones I have paired them with cheese as is common for a savoury scone plus a little background fennel seed with a final flourish topping the scones with a liberal dusting of zataar,  a lebanese herb blend that I have a particular fondness for especially alongside egg and cheese. 

Wild Garlic and Zataar Savoury Scones

350g self raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
100g unsalted butter, diced and chilled
150g cheddar, grated (plus a little extra for topping)
6 rasher of streaky bacon, cooked until crisp and then dices
75g wild garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp fennel seeds
150ml whole milk
2 large eggs (plus extra for glazing)
zataar, for topping

To make the scones line a couple baking trays with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 190C (170C fan).

In a large bowl mix together the flour, baking powder and salt. The addition of baking powder when you are already using self raising flour is simply that cheese scones can have a tendency to be on the heavy side and need a helping hand to rise and stay light. Toss the butter through the flour and then using your hands or a pastry blender rub in the flour until the butter is in irregular sized pieces, non larger than peas. Mix in the cheddar, bacon wild garlic and fennel seeds, evenly distributing the ingredients. Whisk together the milk and eggs then pour into the middle of the scone mixture, then using a butter knife mix to form a shaggy dough. Tip the dough out onto a floured worksurface and use your hands to briefly bring together to form a uniform dough. Lightly flour the worksurface and roll or press out to a thickness of about 2.5cm thick. Use a 7cm round cookie cutter cut out as many scones as possible. Gently re-knead the off cuts to cut out the last few scones. Transfer to the baking trays. 

To finish lightly brush the top of the scones with a little beaten egg and sprinkle with a healthy dose of zataar and a little extra grated cheese. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until golden on top. Best served still a little warm, within a couple days of baking. The scones can also be frozen once fully cooled. 

Black Charcoal Doughnuts

If you have been following me on social media (basically lots of cake pictures. You know, the good stuff!) then you know Kitchenaid challenged me to come up with a recipe inspired by their limited edition Black Tie Standmixer, which you can find out about here. Well, this is that recipe. A doughnut turned ink black, using charcoal powder, filled with a delicious chocolate pastry cream, perfect for halloween next week!

Black Charcoal Doughnuts
500g strong white bread flour
50g light brown sugar
1 tsp fine salt
7g dried fast action yeast
25g black bamboo charcoal powder
4 large eggs
150ml whole milk
250g unsalted butter, diced and at room temperature

Dark Chocolate Custard
500ml whole milk
2 large eggs
4 large egg yolks
200g caster sugar
30g cocoa powder
30g cornflour
75g dark chocolate, roughly chopped

To make the chocolate custard place the milk into a large saucepan and heat over medium heat until it comes to a boil. Meanwhile whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, light brown sugar, cocoa and cornflour until smooth. Pour over the hot milk and whisk to combine. Scrape the custard back into the pan and cook, whisking constantly until the custard has thickened. Scrape the custard into a bowl and add the chocolate, mixing together until melted and combined. Press a sheet of clingfilm onto the surface of the custard and refrigerate until needed. 

To make the doughnut dough place the flour, light brown sugar, salt, yeast and charcoal powder into the bowl of a Kitchenaid Stand Mixer, fitted with the dough hook and mix together to combine. Pour in the milk and the eggs and with the mixer turned to low mix together to form a shaggy dough. Knead on low/medium speed for about 10-15 minutes or until the dough is elastic and pulling away from the sides of the bowl. Start to add the butter a couple pieces at a time, until fully combined. Once the butter has been combined continue to knead until the dough is elastic again and pulling away from the sides of the bowl. This will take about 10-15 minutes. 

At this stage place the dough into a lightly greased bowl, covering with clingfilm, allow to rise until doubled in size. You can either do this at room temperature which will take around an hour or you can refrigerate the dough for about 8-10 hours. 

Tip out the risen dough and divide into 16 equal sized pieces and form into rounds. Set each ball of dough onto a square of parchment paper and flatten slightly with the palm of your hand. Lightly cover with clingfilm and allow to rise until almost doubled in size. To test if the doughnuts are ready for frying press one with your finger. It should spring back slowly, if it springs back quickly it needs to rise longer. 

Fill a large saucepan about 1/2 full with a neutral oil and heat over medium heat to 180C. Once the oil is at temperature turn the heat down to low so that the heat stays at 180C. Add the doughnuts 2 or 3 at a time frying for 5 minutes, flipping half way through cooking. As the doughnuts are black it is hard to tell if they are fully cooked so it is best sticking to the temperature and timings quite closely. Set the doughnuts onto a plate lined with kitchen roll to drain any excess oil. Whilst still a little warm toss in caster sugar. Set aside and allow to cool fully.

To finish use a small knife to cut a slit in the side of each doughnut. Place the custard into a piping bag fitted with a bismarck tip (a long thin piping tip used for filling doughnuts) and fill generously. These doughnuts are best served on the day they are made.