Mulled Clementine Meringue Pie

Christmas desserts are wonderful, I have a lot of love for Christmas cake, for trifle and even occasionally Christmas pudding but don’t you think they sometimes just get a little predictable, a little boring even? Well, this year I decided to do something a little different. First of all if you want a whole host of Christmas dessert ideas then check out the current issue of Olive Magazine as I have written a feature on them, some of the recipes can also be found online here. Secondly I have one more recipe for you this year, a Christmas dessert that would be happy as the end of any big celebration and perfect for the winter months as it uses the fruit of the season, clementines. Doing something fruit based means if you don’t like those rich sometimes heavy Christmas desserts this gives you something as little lighter to enjoy. 

The clementine flavour is on its own a wonderful thing but to make it that little bit extra special and to make it more festive the clementine mixture has been mulled, that is to say infused with spices. Cinnamon, star anise, cloves, cardamon and mixed spice, all those warming wintery spices that we associated with Christmas. The pie itself isn’t too laborious of a task to exclude it from the main event the Christmas dinner. You can blind bake the pie and make the filling the day before simply making the meringue topping on the day you want to serve it, plus you can blowtorch it at the table so you have the same drama as the flames that adorn the Christmas pudding.

Mulled Clementine Meringue Pie
1 full baked pie shell (you can use my favourite pie crust recipe here)

Clementine Filling
650ml clementine juice
100ml lemon juice
Zest of 3 clementines
Zest of 1 lemon
185g caster sugar
1 cinnamon stick
3 cardamon pods, lightly bashed
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
1 star anise
3 cloves
1/2 tsp mixed spice
4 large egg yolks
50g cornflour
100g unsalted butter

Meringue Topping
4 large egg whites
250g caster sugar
Pinch of cream of tartar

To make the filling place the juices, the zests, half the sugar and the spices into a large saucepan and bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for a couple minutes then turn off the heat, cover, and set aside for 30 minutes to infuse.

Once infused whisk together the egg yolks, cornflour and the remaining sugar, whisking until smooth (if the mixture is dry and wont come together add a splash of the warm clementine mixture). Meanwhile place the pan back on the heat and bring the clementine mixture to a simmer. Pour the mixture through a fine sieve onto the eggs, whisking to combine. Pour this mixture back into the pan and over medium/high heat cook until very thick. Once the mixture is bubbling, cook for a couple minutes more to cook out the taste of the cornflour. Scrape the custard back into the bowl and add the butter, stirring to melt and combine it. Pour this finished mixture into the fully baked pie shell and refrigerate for a few hours to set. At this point the pie can be kept in the fridge for a day before topping with the meringue if you want to prepare ahead. 

For the topping place the egg whites, sugar and cream of tartar in a heatproof bowl and place over a pan of simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is hot to the touch. Remove the bowl from the heat and using an electric mixer whisk for about 7-8 minutes or until the meringue has cooled and is holding stiff glossy peaks. 

Spread the meringue over the clementine filling and then using a blowtorch brown the meringue until almost burnt. You want the flavour that comes when the meringue gets nice and dark so don’t be afraid of taking it to the edge of burnt. 

Without the meringue the pie will keep in the fridge for a couple days, with the meringue on I prefer to serve it within a day. 

Salty Honey and Tahini Chess Pie

I. Am. Obsessed. This is a not a new thing, it’s been a slow build but with every bake that I use it in, I fall ever so slightly more in love with it as an ingredient. You can probably tell by the name of this post that the magical ingredient I am talking about is tahini, sesame seed paste. It lends itself so well to baking, it’s flavour is familiar (I describe it as peanut butter but with more depth) and it marries wonderfully with so many different flavours and is the perfect thing when you want something a little more sweet and salty. I’ve added the paste to cakes, to cookies, to all manner of recipes but when the Sister Pie cookbook landed on my doorstep all I could think of was pie. Pie is another obsessions of mine and in the same way I find tahini to be a brilliantly flexible ingredient, pie is the dish that you’ll never run out of ideas for, it is a vessel for whatever flavour you could fancy. And right now that flavour is tahini, specifically a salted honey and tahini pie.

The recipe for this pie uses my favourite pie dough, my ultimate flaky pie dough that I developed for Olive Magazine and can be found here. The filling owes a lot to the brilliant Sister Pie cookbook along with some pointers from the Four and Twenty Blackbirds Pie book which came out a few years back. Its a slight mash up of both their recipes with a few additions from me. 

The recipe is based on an old classic American idea called Chess Pie. Whilst to us brits that name doesn’t mean anything every American I know seems to loves it. Think of it in a way that isn’t dissimilar to treacle tart. You also may know of its famous modern cousin, Milk Bar’s Crack Pie. Now for anyone who has tried Crack Pie you know this style of dessert can be very sweet, almost too sweet for a lot of people, but that is where the brilliance of tahini really helps in this recipe. Whilst sesame works a treat in sweet recipes it does have an overwhelming savouriness which really helps to balance the sweetness in the recipe, as does the salt that is added (do not skip the salt the pie needs it, so do you). 

Salted Honey and Tahini Pie
1/2 batch of my Ultimate Flaky Pie Dough
1 tbsp sesame seeds
egg yolk for blind baking the pie

Filling
120g unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled
150g light brown muscavado sugar (you can use regular light brown too)
3 tbsp fine cornmeal
1/2 tsp salt, plus extra for topping
1 tsp vanilla extract
250g honey
3 large eggs
125g tahini

To make the pie remove the dough from the fridge and on a lightly floured work surface roll out into a circle about 11-12 inches across. Drape into a 9-inch pie plate and cut the excess so that about 1-inch of dough is hanging over the edge of the pie plate. Take the overhang and roll it under itself to form a rope of dough that sits on the rim of the pie plate. Use two fingers of one hand, pinching them together, holding them against the outside of the pie. Use your forefinger of your other hand and press the pastry, from the inside of the pan, into your pinched fingers so the pastry forms a classic v-shaped crimp. 

Place the pie into the fridge for at least 30 minutes or until the pastry is nice and firm (you can also freeze the pie shell at this point). 

Preheat the oven to 220C (200C). Once chilled remove the pie from the fridge and line with a crumpled piece of parchment paper and fill with rice or baking beans. I prefer rice as the small size means there is less air pockets meaning it is less likely for the pastry to rise up during baking. Bake the pie on a baking tray in the preheated oven for about 20–25 minutes or until the crimped edge of the pie is golden brown. Remove the parchment and the rice and bake for a further 5 minutes or so, until the inside of the pie is starting to brown. Since we are adding a wet filling you can add a further step to prevent the dreaded soggy bottom. Brush the inside of the pie with a beaten egg yolk and pop the pie back in the oven for a minute or so until set. 

Remove the pie from the oven and set aside for the moment. Reduce the heat of the oven to 200C (180C fan).

To make the pie filling, place the butter, sugar, cornmeal, salt, vanilla and honey into a large bowl and whisk together until smooth and combined. Add the eggs one at a time whisking to combine. Finally add the tahini and whisk the mixture until everything is smooth and fully combined. Pour the custard into the blind baked pie shell. Before baking brush the crimped edge of the pie with a little beaten egg and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake on a baking tray for about 40-50 minutes or until the edges of the filling are set and puffed up whilst the middle has a gelatinous look to it, set but still a little wobbly. Keep an eye on the rim of the pie as the seeds may brown a little quicker than the pie, so if they seem a little too dark tent the pie with foil for the rest of the baking. 

Remove from the oven and sprinkle with a little flaked sea salt. Set the pie aside to allow it cool to room temperature. 

Paris-Brest

I have a huge love affair with recipes that come with an origin story, recipes like Tarte Tatin invented by mistake by the Tatin sisters in France, or Pavlova a dish created in honour of the Russian ballerina created in either Australia or New Zealand sometime in the 1920’s. Fairly often these stories have just a hint of truth, more myth that historical fact but there is still something about these stories that holds my interest. With the Paris-Brest we have a slightly more accurate understanding of the origins. The classic of french baking, a round choux pastry filled with a praline creme mousseline was created in 1910 by pastry chef Pierre Giffard. He was a big fan of cycling and the name and shape of the pastry was to reflect the Paris to Brest race that passed close to his shop just outside of Paris. Traditionally made with an almond praline it is now more commonly made with a hazelnut praline and is now one of the classics of French patisserie.

The recipe below is based on the version in my book Patisserie Made Simple but over the years since I wrote the book I have slightly tweaked the recipe, although the changes are minimal so if you have the book the recipe in the book still works wonderfully.

Hazelnut Mousseline Cream
500ml whole milk
4 large egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla bean extract
100g caster sugar
50g cornflour
250g unsalted butter
150g praline paste

To make the Paris-Brest it’s best to start with the mousseline as it needs plenty of time to chill. Start by placing the milk in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium/high heat. Meanwhile place the egg yolks, vanilla, caster sugar and cornflour into a large bowl and whisking to combine into a thick paste (if it is too thick and the mixture wont combine add a small splash of the milk before its had a chance to heat up properly). 

When the milk is at temperature pour into the egg mixture, whisking to prevent the eggs from overcooking. Pour the custard back into the pan and place back over the heat and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened and bubbling, then cook for a minute or so more to cook out the cornflour fully. Scrape into a bowl then mix in 50g of the butter then press a sheet of clingfilm onto the surface of the custard, to prevent a skin from forming, then refrigerate until needed, at least 2 hours. Leave the remaining butter to come to room temperature

To finish off the mousseline place the remaining butter into a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until smooth and creamy, add the praline paste and mix to combine. If the butter is too cool and not at the right texture you run the risk of creating lumps in the finished mousseline so make sure the butter is nice and creamy before the next step. 

Remove the pastry cream from the fridge and using a whisk beat until brought back to a smooth texture. When it comes out of the fridge it will be a solid dense mass but with a little manpower it will smooth out. Add the pastry cream to the praline mixture into 3 or so additions, beating until fully combined before adding more. This slow combination of the two mixtures is simply to prevent lumps. Once everything has been combined you should have a mixture that has a texture similar to buttercream but lighter and much less sweet. If the texture looks a little shiny and loose placing the bowl in the fridge for up to an hour will really help.

Choux Pastry
60ml water
60ml whole milk
60g unsalted butter, diced
1/4 tsp salt
1 tsp caster sugar
85g plain flour
2-3 large eggs
100g nibbed hazelnuts

To make the choux pastry place the water, milk, butter, sugar and salt into a large saucepan and place over medium/high heat cooking until the butter has melted and the whole mixture comes to the boil. Remove the pan from the heat and in one go pour in the flour, mixing with a wooden spoon until everything comes together to form a dough. Initially it will resemble scrambled eggs but with a little mixing it will form a uniform dough. Place the pan back on the heat and cook, whilst stirring, for about 2-3 minutes or until a thin film has formed on the base of the pan (the film wont happen if using a non-stick pan). Pour the dough into a large bowl and mix for about 30 seconds to cool slightly. You can use an electric mixer or a wooden spoon for this, but you'll be mixing a lot so a wooden spoon will be quite a workout. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until fully incorporated before adding more. With choux pastry the amount of egg is always a guide, you'll need to make it a few times to really get the feel for the recipe. The end result you are looking for is a pastry with a slight gloss and one that holds a v-shaped ribbon when the wooden spoon is lifted from the bowl. To get a better indication of what the finished dough should look like, give my YouTube video a look, it really helps to see the finished texture. 

Line two baking trays with parchment paper and use an 8cm round cookie cutter, dipped in flour, to mark four circles as templates onto each piece of parchment. Place the choux pastry into a piping bag fitted with a french star tip and pipe rounds of pastry, using the templates as guides. Sprinkle liberally with the hazelnuts. Bake in the preheated oven for about 30 minutes or until golden brown. Turn off the oven and allow the pastries to dry out for about 10 minutes or so before removing and allowing to cool to room temperature.

To assemble the Paris-Brest use a serrated knife to cut the rings of pastry in half. Pipe a little extra praline paste into the base of each choux pastry and top with mousseline cream. The easiest way to do this is to place the cream into a piping bag with a french star tip and pipe peaks of the cream around the ring of pastry. Finish by placing the disk of pastry on top and dusting with a little icing sugar. 

The elements can all be made ahead but once assembled these are best on the day made.

No-Bake Pimm's Strawberry Cheesecake Tarts

As I am writing this Britain is experiencing that elusive summer heatwave, everyone is walking around confused as to what that ball of heat in the sky is and why it’s so nice outside!  I’ve currently escaped my sauna of a kitchen and am currently daydreaming of days at the beach and BBQ’s but as we get closer to July my mind starts to turn towards the English institution of Wimbledon, two weeks where I’ll eat a whole host of strawberries and cream, pretend I follow the tennis year round, and enjoy the whole experience with a glass or two of Pimm’s. I am doubly excited this year as whilst I always watch the tennis at home, this year for the first time, I will actually be there, in SW19, for the main event and I absolutely cannot wait! In the run up to the championship I am partnering with Pimm’s to give you guys some fabulous dessert ideas to enjoy during the summer season. Today’s recipe is one of those recipes you don't have to stress about making in the heat, there’s no baking so the kitchen, and most importantly you won’t end up hot and sweaty. The first recipe for this partnership is Pimm’s No-Bake Cheesecake Tarts with a Pimm’s Strawberry Topping, it’s the perfect thing for a Wimbledon watch party or for a BBQ this summer.  

No-Bake Pimm's Strawberry Cheesecake Tarts

Cheesecake Tart Bases
200g oat biscuits
75g unsalted butter, melted
2 tbsp light brown sugar
1/2 tsp flaked sea salt

Cheesecake
280g full fat cream cheese
100g icing sugar
large pinch sea salt
75ml Pimm’s
1tsp vanilla bean paste
juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
200ml double cream

Strawberry Topping
Pimm's 100ml
75g caster sugar
juice of 1/2 lemon
10 mint leaves
300g strawberries, cut into quarters
250ml double cream

To make the cheesecake tart bases place the oat biscuits into a food processor and pulse until fine. Pour in the butter, sugar and salt and pulse to distribute evenly. Alternatively place the biscuits into a ziplock bag and use a rolling pin to bash into a powder, then pour into a bowl and stir through the sugar, salt and butter. 

Divide the biscuit mixture between 8 loose bottom 10cm tart tins and press firmly into the bases and up the sides of the tins. I find a rolling pin works wonderfully for this, just make sure you press the mixture firmly so that it is compacted otherwise when you remove from the tins they'll fall apart. Place the tart tins into the fridge.

For the cheesecake mixture place the cream cheese, icing sugar, salt, Pimm’s, vanilla, lemon zest and juice into a large bowl and whisk together until smooth and combined. In a separate bowl whisk the cream until it holds soft peaks and then carefully fold it into the cheesecake base. Divide the mixture between the prepared tart shells and refrigerate for about 4 hours or until the cheesecake mixture is firm. Meanwhile make the strawberry topping, place the Pimm’s, caster sugar and lemon juice into a small saucepan and heat over medium heat and cook until the sugar has dissolved then continue cooking for about 5 minutes or until the mixture has reduced and is syrupy. Remove from the heat, add the mint leaves and stir together for a couple minutes before removing and discarding (the heat of the syrup will draw out the flavour and if left in there much longer the mint will come to dominate the flavour). Whilst the syrup is still hot add the strawberries and set aside to cool.

When ready to serve lightly whip the cream and spoon atop the tarts, along with the strawberries and a little of the syrup. You will be left some syrup which you can use to make Pimm’s cocktails, or you could pour over ice cream and fold through an eton mess.